Cusco is an exciting place to be at the moment. In addition to the sense of political possibility stoked by the significant election victory and the ongoing struggle in nearby Puno against invasive Canadian mining ventures, the city is celebrating its annual Corpus Christi and Inti Raymi days. Together the days, and the weeks leading up to them, constitute Cusco days, a period of intense revelry complete with parties, fireworks, and various parades through the central square. This year is especially exciting because it marks 100 years since Hiram Bingham rediscovered Machu Picchu, an anniversary the authorities are touting intensely to boost the already booming tourist attraction (a TV crew showed up in the archives to film the earliest known reference to Machu Picchu). In addition, Yale (where Bingham worked) just recently returned various artifacts taken from that expedition and they will soon be displayed in a local museum. The result of these concurrent trends is a markedly optimistic Cusco.
The celebrations themselves are packed with local meaning. Vari0us groups, including businesses, student groups, university departments, political organizations, peasant communities, sports teams, and many others, work create a spectacle for the parade. They build floats, put together costumes, and choreograph dances and plays to be performed as they march through the Plaza de Armas and surrounding streets. These groups regularly reflect community or regional pride (depictions of Machu Picchu and the condor-puma-snake motif key to Andean mythology are popular) but often they relay simple messages or morals. For example, one health group depicted a nurse battling death with a paper mache syringe in an effort to popularize its own immunization program. Another radical student group had a float of the world being destroyed by environmental damage with soldiers (several labeled CIA) surrounding it, this globe was followed by an angelic depiction of justice holding scales which balanced human development against a glass of water, alluding to the water pollution which now threatens Lake Titicaca and Puno. Continue reading →