Monthly Archives: July 2012

“Racism Does Exist – But I Have Never Experienced It”

I came to Spain to better understand the Ecuadorian immigrant experience in regards to racism and discrimination.  What I found was that racism does exist in Spain and it is apparent in the laws and policies constituted by the Spanish government.  While these laws and policies directly affect Ecuadorian immigrants, the Ecuadorian immigrants that I spoke with were not very open in discussing their own experiences of racism.  Many believed that racism was a problem in Spain, but didn’t recount personal experiences of it.  Often, when racism was discussed, people spoke of the racist government and policies that have been making things difficult for them as immigrants, yet racism was rarely used to describe experiences with these policies.

Ecuadorian immigrants spoke of the immigration policies implemented by the newest president that have made it difficult for them to become citizens.  Some even referred to these policies as “racist,” yet others did not equate the policies as a personal experience of racism, even when they were being directly affected.  One immigrant had been waiting a year since he filed papers to become a Spanish citizen.  He stated that before the economic crisis, it only took a year to complete the process and it was very easy, but now, it could take twice as long.  Despite the policies directly affecting him, he did not seem to think that this was a racist or anti-immigrant issue.

Whitney - Spain - Metro

Police inside a Metro Station

Another policy that was heavily discussed among Ecuadorian immigrants was the policy of police checking papers and legal statuses of anyone in the country.  While the police have the right to check anyone’s papers, they have been known to mainly check those of racial minorities.  One immigrant said that the police would never check the papers of a “rubia,” but that they often ask immigrants for their documentation.  While this immigrant seemed to deny that Spain was a racist country despite his own experience of being asked for his papers, he referred to the police asking for documentation as “racism.” Continue reading

Artistas trans en la Argentina: primer encuentro con Susy Shock, Marlene Wayar y Karen Bennett.

Mariana Bugallo y Susy Shock en el Burlesque

Mi primer contacto con la nueva cultura trans en Argentina fue a la distancia, cuando ya me había ido a vivir lejos, a otra parte. Me gusta comprobar que la distancia espacial no tiene nada que ver con la distancia entre las personas. Hace ya casi dos años mi amiga Mariana Bugallo me hablaba por Skype sobre sus nuevas amigas travestis. Susy. Marlene. Y otras. Ella estaba fascinada, y me hablaba y me hablaba, de ellas, de sus shows, de la música de Susy, de los conceptos de Marlene. Que Marlene tenía una paciencia infinita para corregir su usos heteronormativos del lenguaje, como una maestra risueña de la deconstrucción del género y su normatividad subliminal. Que no había que decir “los travestis” sino “las travestis”, que hablara siempre en femenino. Que Mariana, pese a ser heterosexual también era trans. “El género no es una genitalidad sino una sensibilidad”, dice Marlene Wayar. Y Mariana estaba cambiando su forma de sentir, de pensar-sentir. Más tarde me contó que Susy la había invitado a subir a su escenario para hacer juntas una canción. Los conceptos feministas y transgénero no me llamaron la atención en ese momento, parecía, en mis oídos distantes, sólo una cuestión de gusto lingüístico. Desde mi mirada académica, todavía sospechaba un tedio academicista. Porque no la conocía a Marlene. Lo que sí vi desde el primer día fue la cara de Mariana, su voz, un fueguito que no le conocía. Su voz. Luego de años de casi no cantar, de casi no tocar la guitarra, años de escribir casi en secreto unos textos que yo nunca leí, de a poco, Mariana empezó a escribir, y a cantar. Y a cantar como nunca. Y a escribir unos textos hermosos. No imaginaba que todo eso estaba ahí, latente, esperando que algo afuera de sí misma hiciera una primera chispa. Ese fue mi primer contacto con Susy Shock y con Marlene Wayar y con Karen Bennett, cuyos nombres yo confundía, y poco me importaban, pero ya las quería porque habían hecho esto en Mariana. Y yo no conocía muchos artistas así de generosos, capaces de acompañar así a los demás para que creen con su propia voz algo diferente. Tiempo después, leí a Naty Menstrual y a Susy Shock en un curso. Y me cautivaron los textos.  Y después entendí también la dimensión política de este movimiento de personas singulares y amorosas, que formaron parte de las conquistas sociales recientes de los derechos LGBT en Argentina. Leí lo que en ese momento era un proyecto de ley y que ahora es una ley vigente aprobada por unanimidad en el Congreso de la Nación, la Ley de Identidad de Género. Y hace dos semanas llegué a Buenos Aires para conocerlas, para escuchar el relato de ellas acerca de este movimiento que es a la vez personal y político, artístico y vital.

Nos encontramos en el Burlesque, en Congreso. Ya habían accedido a través del contacto angélico de Mariana, a ser filmadas. Y nos sentamos a la mesa y empezamos a hablar. Esta primera entrevista fue breve. Hablamos de la Ley, que para ellas es una conquista política muy bienvenida. Pero que ahora es necesario superar. Esta ley permite que las personas sean registradas ante el Estado según el género que cada quien considere que le corresponde, de acuerdo a su “autopercepción”. Y ya es enorme esa revolución en el concepto de género, porque queda despegado de la genitalidad, y no se le exige a nadie ninguna operación para cambiarse el nombre propio y la identidad sexual ante la mirada del Estado -y todas sus instituciones. Pero la ley sólo contempla dos géneros, hombre y mujer, y en ese punto todavía no es lo suficientemente radical. Karen Bennett dijo, hablando de la Ley: yo soy marlenewayarista. Y explicó. Porque ellas no son mujeres, no pretenden serlo. Y eso, que parece un tecnicismo, no lo es.

“El problema con lo transexual es inverso a lo gay o lo lésbico con respecto al closet. Nosotras no tenemos closet, porque al asumir esta identidad se hace inmediatamente pública y evidente. Pero en muchos casos lo terminamos construyendo. Hay una trampa montada, justamente, por la necesidad de afecto y aceptación. El closet, para mí, lo representa la necesidad de operarse para tener “el cuerpo que corresponde.” Esa identidad quirúrgica me provoca muchas inquietudes. ¿Significa portar internamente la mentira?” escribía Marlene en la MU (julio 2009).

Marlene Wayar y Karen Bennett en el Burlesque

Marlene Wayar es una pensadora, una creadora de conceptos. Y es por eso que quise incluirla en mi lista de artistas trans, porque hay un trabajo artesanal con la palabra delicado y en permanente movimiento. La entrevista se disolvió de un momento a otro porque empezaba el show: Las Noches Bizzarras. Y entonces el tono pausado y explicativo de la entrevista desapareció ante la irrupción de un hecho estético poderoso, seductor y político, eminentemente colectivo y risueño.

Posted by Rocío Pichon Rivière — Phd candidate in Spanish and Portuguese at NYU

Exploring State-Civil Society Interactions in Buenos Aires

Philips - Argentina - asignacion universal

ANSES relies heavily on technology. Each of the recipients I interviewed first learned about the program by TV advertisements. Those who qualify can enroll and set appointments via text message.

It is hard to believe how fast my month of research passed. While in Buenos Aires, I worked at a local ANSES office to learn about the effects of Asignacion Universal por Hijo (AUH), a conditional cash transfer, on women’s empowerment. Interviewing recipient women brought me to see that, in many cases, the grant helps empower a recipient woman by way of strengthening her identity as a mother and enhancing her sense of self-fulfillment. Recipient women told me again and again how AUH helped them to feel that they could now be the mother they had always hoped to be. With the help of the grant, a woman is able provide the food, school supplies, clothing, and other basic needs for her children. The women I interviewed emphasized that they want the best for their children, and without the financial help of the grant each month, many recipient families cannot always afford many things for their children, including a balanced diet or clothes and shoes that properly fit. While the monetary value of the grant is small (about 40 USD per child), the impact it has on low-income families is substantial. With the grant, many families find that they can afford send the children to school where they will learn, make friends, and grow up equipped to be in a better economic position than the previous generation.

Continue reading

From the Philippines to Flanders in the Ochavo Chapel, Puebla

Gilding from the Rosario Chapel in Puebla, similar to the Ochavo Chapel.

Sitting in a spacious but sparsely furnished living room somewhere between Puebla and Cholula, chatting with three Germans, a Dutchman, and a Mexican, the subject of China came up. As we all marveled and prognosticated about its size, its culture, its history, and its role in the world economy, my thoughts turned to the 16th century (as, I suppose, is not particularly uncommon for me). The artist that forms the subject of my research, the Basque émigré to New Spain Baltasar de Echave Orio (1548? – 1623), would not have been a stranger to groupings of a similarly international flavor. His coterie would have included other Spaniards like the poet Bernardo de Balbuena, the German publisher Enrico Martínez (Heinrich Martin), and perhaps Creole intellectuals like Baltasar Dorantes de Carranza. And China was on their minds too. In Chapter III of his encomiastic ode to the viceregal capital, Grandeza Mexicana (1603), Balbuena makes consistent reference to the Chinese goods offered in the market of Mexico City. For Balbuena, the New Spanish capital was a “pueblo ilustre y rico, en que se pierde el deseo de más mundo.”[1]

For me, this is one of the most fascinating aspects of viceregal Mexico – the potential for its citizens to perceive themselves globally. A particularly striking manifestation of this global outlook is the Ochavo Chapel[2] at the Puebla Cathedral. Built in the 1680’s, the Chapel of the Holy Spirit gets its nickname, Ochavo, from its octagonal plan. A tall column of space with a reduced footprint, three of its walls house enormous and resplendent altarpieces. Each comprises a structure of gilded wood tangled into a thicket, suspending within its vines a panoply of precious objects. There are small oil paintings on wood and canvas made in Mexico, and painted copper plates imported from Flanders depicting religious scenes. Feather mosaics dot the walls, as do bits of bone set within opulent reliquaries, and one altarpiece is crowned by a sculpture of the Crucifixion made in ivory and likely imported from the Philippines.  In this agglomeration of objects the old (copper paintings in the early 16th c. style of Joachim Patinir) and the new (coppers by Juan Tinoco made in the late 17th century to complete the space) stand side by side. Quetzal feathers cozy up to Roman relics and Asian ivory.

Continue reading

Em Greve / On Strike

Muse - Brasil - Computer

my partner in crime and her registration forms

As I write this, the Biblioteca Nacional is rounding out its third (and hopefully final) day of “Cultura em Greve,” or “Culture on Strike.” Since Monday, its doors and gates have been firmly locked to the outside public, with only a few security guards milling around the premises, often simply to answer questions of the curious public. I included myself in the latter category as I found myself hesitantly walking to the side entrance early Tuesday afternoon to inquire with regard to exactly what was going on. After all the previous accounts of drama with the library, the strike did not come as a surprise, but it was a definite disappointment. My days in Rio are numbered; there is only one full week remaining in my time here. So these additional setbacks become all the more grave considering I have only found one valuable piece to add to my research in an entire two months.

“What’s going on?” I asked the guard with caution, expecting him to tell me to leave the premises (the gate I had entered through was only ajar for the passing of one of the other guards).

“The library workers are on strike for a few days. They’re still in talks, but things should be back to normal on Thursday or Friday”

Just a typical day in my attempt to actually get any work done. Continue reading

Teatro La Candelaria: la creación colectiva como proyecto estético-político

Entre las decenas de salas teatrales que alberga el barrio de La Candelaria, en el centro histórico de la ciudad de Bogotá, una de las que condensa más de cuatro décadas de historia es la casona del Teatro La Candelaria. Este grupo fue fundado en 1966 por un grupo de artistas e intelectuales que buscaban nuevas líneas de experimentación teatral y de práctica política. De más está decir el lujo que representa haber tenido la oportunidad de visitar este espacio, y de entrevistar a actrices y actores que hoy en día no solo son admirables por su maestría como artistas, sino que encarnan en sí mismos una tradición teatral. Patricia Ariza, Nohora Ayala, César “Coco” Badillo y Francisco “Pachito” Martínez tuvieron la generosidad de conversar conmigo sobre la historia del Teatro La Candelaria, su propuesta estética y su compromiso político.

Robles-Moreno - Colombia y Perú - casona

La casona del Teatro La Candelaria

Patricia Ariza recuerda la conciencia que siempre tuvo el grupo del carácter fundacional del trabajo que estaban haciendo: el Maestro Santiago García, fundador y director del Teatro La Candelaria, columna y guía de sus proyectos, tomó el riesgo de retirarse de la Universidad Nacional y empezar una empresa quijotesca que no se ha detenido hasta el día de hoy. Desde sus inicios, La Candelaria ha promovido un diálogo entre artistas, sindicatos de trabajadores, ciudadanos en situación de desplazamiento y el movimiento estudiantil. De estas conversaciones surgió un nuevo público teatral, que exigía obras propias, que hablaran de lo que pasaba en Colombia. Patricia Ariza explica el paso de una dramaturgia de autor a procesos de creación colectiva, en los que la puesta en escena nace de la colaboración entre todos los miembros del grupo; frente a un darse cuenta de que “nosotros somos dramaturgos también”, el camino hacia una nueva forma de hacer teatro se empieza a definir. Desde entonces, La Candelaria emprende sistemáticamente la creación de obras originales de dramaturgia nacional con el método de creación colectiva.
Continue reading

Newcomers in New York: Musings on Methods

Cadena Belski - New York - Newcomer Students

The anthropology of yore is gone— whereby researchers would go to the island to observe “the natives” and upon returning to the “real world,” share all that was learned of the other  while in “the field.”  With the advents of technology and the increasingly globalized world, there are no more islands left untouched — and so the necessity for and the rules of — ethnography have changed.  And I think it’s a good thing.

While most modern anthropologists agree that their predecessors’ approaches and methodologies were not without their faults, they must acknowledge their contributions along with the controversies.  The contemporary anthropologist, however, is not without adversity or critique.  Along with the introduction of advanced technologies and new forms of communication comes the potential for infinite possibilities for shaping research and everyday lives.  This is the discourse with which I dance.

The blog is an interactive form of communication/ social media in publicly accessible format.  It is what I am incorporating into my methodology.  The fact that the “informants/participants” are able to consciously and intentionally contribute to the blog opens an entire new set of questions; questions I still do not have the answers to, because like my predecessors, Malinowski and Geertz, I am figuring out the perimeters.  Continue reading

“Me Siento Mas Boliviano Que Nunca”: Interviews and Observations on the Soccer Field

For my final research post, I wanted to share a bit about one of the most important parts of my project: to conduct both interviews and participant observation with a Bolivian soccer league in Buenos Aires. As with much of my research, where exactly this would take place depended much on the contacts I made and where they led me. Dr. Manuel Cervantes at FUNCRUSUR connected me with Augustin Flores, who brought me to two different parks: Parque Avellaneda y Parque Roca. My first day there, I talked with several “mesas de directores,” where the league leaders keep the paperwork and such. The first day, I completed some general interviews about basic organizational structures and took a lot of pictures.

Tollefson - Argentina - Asociacion

Me with Rigoberto (committee leader) and Pedro (president) of the Asociacion Deportiva Guaqui.

Two weeks later, I returned to the Parque Avellaneda to talk more formally with the president and committee leader of the Asociacion Deportiva Guaqui, Pedro and Rigoberto. The Asociacion Deportiva Guaqui (ADQ) includes mainly members from the town of Guaqui near Lake Titicaca, following the normal pattern of groups made up of individuals from the same region of Bolivia. Continue reading

Inevitable Change: Tourism’s Impact on Indigenous Communities in Guatemala

Bowker - Guatemala - TourismI have returned to Guatemala to do field research for the NYU CLACS masters program after having served in this country as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2008-2010. Even though I am now in a different location of the country from when I served as a volunteer, many elements of the towns San Pedro La Laguna and San Juan La Laguna are familiar and ubiquitously Guatemalan. The major difference about these communities in comparison to other parts of the country is their ability to use tourism as a development strategy and how this has changed the people’s everyday lives and culture.

My research interest lies with the cultural elements that are unique to these two towns because of their high connection with the outside world. The town’s geography gives them both their own feel and how they have used tourism differently has had significant impacts on everyday life. Situated alongside the beautiful Lake Atitlan surrounded by volcanoes at an altitude of over five thousand feet, both San Pedro and San Juan have something to offer the bold tourist who craves a unique cultural experience. Over the past twenty years these communities have developed with the aid of tourism, but poverty still grips the lives of the majority of the town’s inhabitants. Trying to understand this situation will take time and patience. After being here a week, I have identified many people who have unique perspectives that will benefit my research.   Continue reading

Fundación Almamanta


Rimasun - Fundacion ALMA - CLACS at NYUKay audiopi, paqarichiq Cristal Downing riman fundacionninmanta. Fundacionnin sutin Alma, llank’an erqekunawan latinoamericapi. Cristal estudiaran CLACSpi iskay watakunapaq, kunan pay Colombiaman tiyaq, llank’aq ima rinqa.

En este audio, directora Cristal Downing habla de su fundación. La fundación se llama Alma, y trabaja con niños en latinoamérica. Cristal estudió en CLACS por dos años y ahora ella va a vivir y trabajar en Colombia.

In this podcast, Director Cristal Downing tells us about her foundation. It’s named Alma, and supports work with children in Latin America. Cristal studied at CLACS for two years, and now she will live and work in Colombia.

In the photo above, a young woman in Colombia participates in a music workshop through Fundación Alma. Learn more on the Fundación Alma website.


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